Scallop Shells and Saints

A scallop shell marks the pilgrimage route to Santiago.

The scallop shell is the traditional emblem of St James the Great and is popular with pilgrims returning from the Way of St James (Camino de Santiago) and the apostle’s shrine at Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain. Medieval Christians would collect a scallop shell while at Compostela as evidence of having made the journey. The association of Saint James with the scallop can most likely be traced to the legend that the apostle once rescued a knight covered in scallops. An alternative version of the legend holds that while St. James’ remains were being transported to Galicia (Spain) from Jerusalem, the horse of a knight fell into the water, and emerged covered in the shells.

In French the animal (as well as a popular meal of it in cream sauce) is called coquille St. Jacques. In German, they are Jakobsmuscheln – literally “James’ mussels”. When referring to St James, a scallop shell is displayed with its convex outer surface showing. In contrast, when the shell refers to the goddess Venus (who stepped out from the sea on a scallop shell), it is displayed with its concave interior surface showing.

Sandro Botticelli, The Birth of Venus (c. 1484-86). Tempera on canvas. Uffizi, Florence

Pilgrimage to Santiago

The Botafumeiro is a famous thurible found in the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral. In the past, similar devices were used in large churches in Galicia; one is still used in the Tui Cathedral. Incense is burned in this swinging metal container, or “censer”. The name “Botafumeiro” means “smoke expeller” in Galician.

The Camino de Santiago known in English as the Way of Saint James is a network of routes and pathways for pilgrims to the shrine of the apostle Saint James the Great in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwestern Spain, where the remains of the saint are buried.

The Way of St. James was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages during the Middle Ages, together with those to Rome and Jerusalem. Canterbury (which had the shrine of St. Thomas Becket) was the fourth most popular pilgrimage.

Legend holds that St. James’s remains were carried by boat from Jerusalem to northern Spain, where he was buried in what is now the city of Santiago de Compostela. (The name Santiago is the local Galician evolution of Latin Sancti Iacobi, “Saint James”.)

During the Middle Ages, the route was highly travelled. However, the Black Death, the Protestant Reformation, and political unrest in 16th century Europe led to its decline. By the 1980s, only a few hundred pilgrims per year registered in the pilgrim’s office in Santiago. However, since the 1980s the route has attracted a growing number of modern-day international pilgrims.

Today, hundreds of thousands (over 200,000 in 2014) of Christian pilgrims and many others set out each year from their front doorsteps or from popular starting points across Europe, to make their way to Santiago de Compostela. Most travel by foot, some by bicycle, and some travel as some of their medieval counterparts did, on horseback or by donkey (for example, the British author and humorist Tim Moore). In addition to those undertaking a religious pilgrimage, many are hikers who walk the route for other reasons: travel, sport, or simply the challenge of weeks of walking in a foreign land. Also, many consider the experience a spiritual adventure to remove themselves from the bustle of modern life. It serves as a retreat for many modern “pilgrims”.

There is a famous church in Prague also dedicated to St. James.

St. James the Moor-slayer

Statue of Saint James the Moor-slayer or Santiago Matamoros in the Cathedral of Burgos, Castille, Spain

Tradition has it that the Apostle Saint James preached in Spain. He then returned to Jerusalem, where Herod executed him. The corpse was then placed in a ship that arrived at Spain. The tomb was forgotten until the year AD 813, when a hermit noted lights and songs around the place. The hermit told the local bishop who–after removing some weeds–discovered the remains of the apostle identified by the inscription on the tombstone. He reported the discovery to King Alfonso II, who came to the scene and proclaimed the Apostle Sant Iago (Saint James) patron of the kingdom. The area was then renamed as Campus Stellae, the “Field of Stars,” from which the current name, Compostela, has been derived.

During the Battle of Clavijo, it is said that Saint James the Great miraculously appeared to provide assistance to an outnumbered Spanish Christian army, helping them gain victory against the Moors who had started their conquest of Spain in AD 711. The battle is placed between AD 834 and 844, about 800 years after the death of James. According to legend, Saint James appeared as a warrior on a white horse amidst the Spanish army, wielding a white banner. Upon seeing him, the Christian army cried out “¡Dios ayuda a Santiago!” which translates to “God save St. James!” It is believed that more than 5,000 Moors were killed during the battle, earning James the title Matamoros or “Moor-slayer”.

Many historians argue that the Battle of Clavijo never took place and that it was a myth based on the historical Battle of Monte Laturce (AD 859). The legend only appeared in writing nearly 300 years after its alleged occurrence. However, while it was based on legend, the story of the battle helped establish Spain’s national identity.

See an article from The Guardian about St. James the Moor-slayer here.